Make A Plan Monday: Cooking in Winter without Electricity

How was your winter?  Any spring in sight yet?

What do you do when the power goes out and its cold outside?  How do you cook?  I've mentioned before different methods of cooking/baking foods without electricity.  Today I am sharing some more about using the Sun Oven on a cold wintery day--to show it does work to cook/bake even in cold temperatures.

In order to use the Sun Oven there does need to be sun, and little or no wind; but other than that even when it is below freezing outside, it still works!  Simply angle the Sun Oven towards the sun, using the leg.  During the summer there is little to no need for that leg in the back, but during the fall, winter and spring it will cook/bake better/faster if the leg is used to tilt the Sun Oven to an angle that helps direct the rays into the oven.  Then like always, rotate the oven every 15-30 minutes to keep the shadows even.  I've noticed that in the winter I need to rotate it more often than in the summer--usually closer to 15 to 20 minutes instead of upwards 30 minutes--to keep the shadows close to equal on both sides.  It takes about 30 minutes to get between 250 and 300 degrees inside the Sun Oven.   Once it is preheated, it is ready to bake and cook--yeah!

The above picture was taken on a wintery day when the electric was working fine.  But, when the power went out with an ice storm we had around here, having this solar oven allowed us to be able to still bake food because thankfully we had sun after the storm went through.  If we hadn't had sun, and only clouds, well then we would have simply had to just use another method of cooking/baking.

Now is a good time to start saving for big items like a Sun Oven that often come on sale during the summer.  Other great items to have on hand for power-outages in winter/cold weather:  blankets, battery/crank/solar powered radio, flashlights & batteries, warm clothing, board games/books to read, powerless/alternative cooking/baking methods & fuel for them, cash (when power out ATM/card swipers don't work), car charger for phones/etc. or other small device charger if wanted/needed, and definitely a plan!!!  A plan of not only what to have available, but what to do during a power-outage, and where to go if necessary.

Saturday School: How to Make A Box Oven

Saturday School:  How to Make A Box Oven (also known as apple box oven or cardboard box oven)

Box ovens are great for baking as they are easy and cheap to make, and they do a good job of baking too.

Pros:  Cheap to make, easy to make, great for baking, use with charcoal

Cons:  can use only outdoors--do NOT use indoors, if you are a perfectionist making it may be a little frustrating in that the aluminum foil is hard to keep nice and wrinkle free

Costs:  cost of box, heavy duty aluminum foil, foil tape (if using), baking rack, pop bottles or other method to hold rack up, charcoal, pan that will fit.

So here is how I made mine:

Using Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil and foil tape I completely cover all surfaces of both the banker's box and its lid, using foil tape for the seams and around the handle hole that I use for ventilation.  No cardboard is exposed when I am done with it.  I have made a box oven in the past without using foil tape and it worked just fine, I folded the seams over a few times to make sure the heated air couldn't get under the aluminum foil.  I use empty pop bottles to hold up a rack and an aluminum pie pan for holding the charcoal.

Options:  There are different ways to make and use a box oven.  The method I use most often is where the lid is the side door.  But with the box oven I made, I can use the lid as the bottom, the side or the top.  Some box oven instructions have the lid going on top (so you first put in charcoal and whatever is holding the rack, the rack then the pan and put the box lid on the box as the top); while others have the box coming over top the food and rack system (set up charcoal and rack system and bring box over it) and no separate lid.    Some even have you make a oven window to see inside.

Here are a few links to resources of how others have made a box oven:

http://foodstoragemadeeasy.net/fsme/docs/boxoven.pdf ---this shows how to make the kind where the box comes over the top.  Great instructions and such for this type.

http://peaceofpreparedness.com/Resource%20Library/Cookers/Applebox%20Oven%20directions%20and%20instructions%202011.pdf  ---this shows how to make a box oven with a window.  Great instructions and information.

http://safelygatheredin.blogspot.com/2008/10/how-to-make-cardboard-box-oven.html  ---this shows how to make the kind where the lid is just that--a lid for the top.  Great instructions for this type.

First Aid Friday: Campfire Safety

First Aid Friday:  Choosing a safe place for a campfire

A safe campfire location is where only the intended fuel will burn when fed to the fire.  It needs to be where flames won’t spread if proper precautions are taken.  If possible, use premade firepits/grilling areas.  If the need to make a campfire where there isn’t a designated spot, be selective in the spot chosen for the fire.  Choose a spot that is down to the bare ground--gravel, sand or bare soil away from grasses, plants, bushes or anything else that possibly could catch fire.  Also make sure branches from trees over head aren’t too close.  Remove all burnable material both in the campfire spot and surrounding areas for about 10 or more feet from the fire. ALWAYS have water available for dousing the fire in emergency.  Before leaving the campfire area, make sure it is out cold, that the ashes both on top and on bottom are cool enough to touch to ensure the possibility of fire spreading is limited.

Camping is an enjoyable activity.  But, if safety isn't take seriously, harm or death can result.  Be sure to know and follow fire safety rules to be able to limit any possible accidents and danger.

Wednesday Why: How to use Fired-Up

Wednesday Why:  How do I use Fired Up (or Insta-Fire)?

Fired Up can be used to start another type of fuel like wood or charcoal or it can be used on its own.  Since the cost of using Fired Up exclusively to cook or bake is more than using charcoal or wood, I suggest using it to get the charcoal or wood started rather than to cook/bake the whole meal.  The plus side of Fired Up over charcoal or wood is it can be stored indoors safely, it won't spontaneously ignite or explode.  If it catches fire, it will simply burn with no blowing up.  Also, it will still burn even if it is windy outside.

To use Fired Up as a starter for wood or charcoal:  Place 1/2 to 1 cup of Fired Up on aluminum foil if using a charcoal chimney or can put directly onto volcano grill or charcoal grill bottom if want.  Light the Fired Up.  Place charcoal chimney with charcoal to light or wood to light over Fired Up & aluminum foil.  To get the best use of the Fired Up, occasionally stir it.  The 2 pictures below show the fired up being place directly into a volcano grill and onto aluminum foil with a charcoal chimney put over it.  Both methods of getting the charcoal going worked, but the charcoal chimney worked better in my opinion.

To use Fired Up exclusively without wood or charcoal:  Place 1+ cups of Fired Up in volcano grill/can stove/Firebox Stove, etc. The smaller grills/stove will likely use less Fired Up since you won't be heating as much space.  Light and occasionally stir to keep it going and get maximum use out of it.  Expect to use 1 cup of Fired Up for every 20-30 minutes of cooking you need.

In my own trials, even on a windy day, 1 cup of Fired Up burns for about 20-30 minutes.  It doesn't light if it is water logged.  I found it easier to get the charcoal going in a charcoal chimney rather than directly in the volcano grill/grill, even with using the Fired Up.

Make A Plan Monday: Fire Preparedness

No person that I know of would want their house to catch fire and burn down.  But, it is still wise to make a plan on what to do if it does.  For Family Home Evening, or otherwise as a family, counsel together about what your family can and will do if such a tragedy of a house fire were to happen.  Plan and teach fire safety, escape routes, plan a meeting place, and plan for recovery.

PLAN ESCAPE & MEETING PLACE:  every person in your home who can understand the dangers of a fire and move him/herself to another location should learn and know how to leave through doors or windows.  If bedrooms are on a second or third floor, there are ladders made for fire escape from an upstairs window.  Show how to exit through a window--and let them know that in a fire, if they need to break the window to get out--to do it!  Plan at least one place far enough away from the house that smoke and fire aren't a danger.  If you have a big fenced in yard, it could be in a far corner of the yard, as corners are easier to locate and find in the dark.  Think about which areas of the home family members are most likely to be in and plan a meeting place on that side of the house if possible.  If in an apartment/condo, choose a location in the parking lot or by the mailboxes (if they are in a separate area from the building on fire).

Write down your family escape plan.  Also, it is wise to notify a neighbor or family/friend that is close by about your plan.  Most local fire stations will gladly share fire safety tips and allow for tours where children and adults alike can learn what to do in a fire; call ahead and find out what their guidelines for tours and such are.

PRACTICE:  as a family periodically have fire drills where everyone can practice leaving the home and meeting up at the meeting place.  You can either plan these ahead or do random drills to really test everyone's knowledge.  To make it a little more real, invite a family member or friend to call randomly and notify you that you have 1 minute to leave your home for a fire drill.

PLAN RECOVERY:  Many people pay for fire/home or renter's insurance to help cover costs of items lost in a fire, others plan on simply replacing items over time as they are able.  Whether you carry insurance or not, though, a plan for what to do immediately after a house fire is needed.  Where will you live?  How will you meet basic needs of shelter, food, clothing?  What about documents and such that may have been lost in the fire, did you have a plan for replacing those that can be or reproducing them before a fire and having more than one copy?  Who will be notified of your loss?  How will you handle the emotional side of a house fire?  Do you have a good support system of family and friends?  Making a plan of how you will pull through a house fire tragedy, and possibly even loss of loved ones, will help should that time come that a plan needs to be used.  Without a plan, besides the loss of both things both physical and emotional, on top of everything you'll have to decide what to do, how to do it, etc.

No amount of planning and preparing for disaster ever really makes the disaster a breeze to go through, but it does help at least the emotional side of things to have thought it out and planned to the best we could.  The disaster very well may destroy any physical preparations, but I believe with physical, emotional and spiritual preparation we are better prepared to endure it well.

Make A Plan Monday: Alternative Cooking/Powerless Cooking

Making a plan for cooking when there is no electricity.  For the month of June I want to focus on sharing information about cooking without electricity.

If you had to go without electricity for more than a day, what would you eat?  What if you didn’t have electricity for 1 or more weeks?  Would you still be able to eat without going to a restaurant and without eating the same things, like granola bars or peanut butter and crackers, over and over and over?  By having one or more alternative cooking methods available, you can cook food thus widening your menu choices.  Obviously because there is no freezer or fridge available you will need to adjust recipes to make just enough to eat in one sitting, and use items that are shelf stable to begin with, but by being able to cook you have lots more variety.   Below are some examples of food items that don’t require any cooking, and then some examples of food items that can be made using shelf stable items and cooked.  Neither list is exhaustive, but simply a sample of what can be stored and eaten when there is no electricity and to show the wider range of food items that can be eaten when there is a way to cook food.

No cooking required food examples:  granola bars (premade); peanut butter and crackers, canned fruits (and veggies, but not very good cold), canned chicken salad (using small mayo packets that are shelf stable until opened), trail mix, jerky, any bread/muffins that has already been made.

Shelf Stable cooked foods examples:  oatmeal/grits, soups/chilis, pancakes, breads, casseroles, pasta and sauce, muffins, mac & cheese, MREs, other prepared meals made for shelf stable storage.

Thrifty Thursday: Water Storage Container Comparison

April Showers:  Water Storage Container Comparisons

Below is a chart I originally put together back in 2011, but updated for this year.  Most things were either the same price or little change up or down.  There are many more water containers and such available than what is shown on the chart.  Simply search water on the Emergency Essentials website or Sams Club, etc. to find more information and products.

The cost per gallon listed is taking the initial cost of the item(s) and dividing it by the amount of gallons (128 oz) it holds or contains.  For instance the Emergency Essentials blue barrel cost of 75.95 divided by 55 gallons equals about $1.38 per gallon.  Another example:  The 40 pack of bottled water at Sams Club costs 3.98.  16.9 oz per bottle means there is 676 oz or about 5.28 gallons.  $3.98 divided by 5.28 is about $0.75 per gallon.  I set the price of the pop bottle being used for water as $0.00 because you are simply reusing a container that you bought for another purpose, the pop; but if you want to use the initial price of the pop--generic Kroger brands can cost around $0.69, then your cost per gallon is .69 divided by .53 (2 liters is about .53 of a gallon) which comes to about $1.30 per gallon (basically 2 2 liter bottles gives you one gallon of water).

These costs are based on regular prices.  If you can find a sale, the price will drop.

When considering what containers to use, initial cost is a factor.  But also consider how well it holds up--is it something that will have to be replaced within 1 to 2 years or something that will keep for 5, 10 or 20 years without a problem?  Also consider the space needed for the varying sizes of containers--some are really bulky others can be stored just about anywhere--under beds, closets, under couches that are raised by legs, etc.

conversions used:  128 oz in 1 gallon; about 3.79 liters in 1 gallon or about 33.8 oz in 1 liter

Wednesday Why: Water Storage Q&A

April Showers...More on Water

Water Q&A:  I often get asked questions about home storage and preparedness, here are a few about water and water storage that I've been asked over the years.

Why should we store drinking water besides obedience to wise counsel?  It simply makes sense because we cannot live long without water.  If the water source becomes contaminated or is completely disrupted, you will need water to sustain you until the water is safe to drink again.  It is so much better to prepare 5 years in advance to any emergency, than 5 minutes too late.  Failure to prepare is choosing to be dependent on others during crisis and choosing to possibly not have your needs met and thereby getting sick or dying.

Why do people neglect to store water?  Some possible reasons people may not be storing water are:  Space!  Water takes up a lot of space.  Cost.  Quality containers cost money, as do filters and such.  Uninformed:  missed warnings and counsel that come from multiple sources.  Uninformed:  don’t know how to best store water.  Lack of desire to prepare oneself for emergencies.  Want to rely on others--”My____has food & water storage, I’ll just go to their house in an emergency.” (and thereby lessen their resources).

What is the best way to store water?  Actual drinking water stored in leak proof food grade containers that limit light and stored in a cool dark place is the best way to store water.  Container size is an individual choice, but generally speaking the larger containers can store more water in less space than smaller containers.  Small containers are nice to have if need to move it around.  Beyond drinking water, storing filtering systems and their parts, chemical treatments and/or other materials needed to purify water are another good way to prepare for water shortage/contamination emergencies.

How much water should I store?  1 gallon of water per person per day.  Increase this amount if living in an area of high heat or if have health concerns that require you to have more water (like pregnant or nursing, diabetes,etc.).  Store at least 3 days to 2 weeks worth of water at home.  In an emergency where water is limited or contaminated you probably won’t be sorry for the space you used to store water.

Can I use milk jugs to store water?  Yes, but be aware the plastic breaks down quickly so it is only a short term option--as little as 3-8 months before the jug should be replaced.  Also, be sure to completely clean them and use a bleach/water solution to sanitize them before filling with water.  There are much better options, including pop bottles, water barrels, and water bottles.  

Can I use bleach bottles or laundry detergent bottles to store water?  No, at least not for drinking water.  They could possibly be used to store water that will be used for washing clothes or cleaning, but should NEVER be used to store water to be used for drinking.

Can I store my water barrels outside?  Yes.  But beware it is subject to the elements--high or low temperatures, light and such.  Outdoor storage is not ideal, but it can be done, just be sure to purify it periodically or before using it since bacteria thrives in light and heat.  Also be sure to store the water off of cement.

Can I store water containers on cement?  Containers should be off cement, either by simply placing on pieces of wood or by putting on a shelf.

Can I just store water filters or purifying tablets rather than storing drinking water?  These are good to have on hand and know how to use, but remember you have to have a source of water to use these, so if you have no drinking water and no water source nearby, then having only these may not be affective without travel or other method of obtaining water.  I personally suggest having at least a 3 day to 2 week store of drinking water (at least 3 days, but as much beyond that that you have room for) and then having the knowledge/skills and materials needed to purify water should you need it beyond what you have stored.

Do I need to transfer bottled water into a different container?  No.  If you buy bottled water, store it in its original container, then just be sure to check it periodically for leaks, discoloration or odors.

How often do I need to rotate through my water storage?  It depends on the container and where it is stored.  If using milk jugs, you will need to rotate within a few months to as long as a year.  If using pop bottles or other plastic bottles (like that of bottled water), you will want to rotate every 1-2 years.  If using large barrels or other food grade containers made for water storage, and they are stored in cool, dark places; it is wise to rotate every 3-5 years.  Though technically if the container is sanitized, doesn't leach/leak, etc and the water was purified, the water can store for much longer.  

All water storage should be checked periodically for leaks, discoloration, & odors.  If there are leaks, bacteria can get in.  If there is discoloration or odor it is likely a contaminant of some sort got in or the container itself is leaching something into the water.

Wednesday Why: Why Water?

Why Water?  Why should an individual or family store water as part of their home storage?  The simplest answer is water is essential to life.  I have posted on water in the past, but thought it time to repost as a reminder about storing water.  Below are some basics to storing water.

During storms, natural disasters or other emergencies like water pipes bursting, the water supply may become disrupted or contaminated.  For this reason, it is wise to have on hand a 2 week supply of water for each person in the home.  1 gallon per day is the minimum (if it is really hot weather, or other health concerns like diabetes, double the amount).  Water is your most precious survival item, without water you cannot survive for much longer than a few days whereas you can live without food for longer.  With unclean water, you may contract diseases that could lead to death or at least an uncomfortable existence.  With no water, you will die after a few days, or at least sustain permanent kidney damage or other problems.

When a major disaster happens, it is safe and wise to assume the water is unsafe without further purification, as many times disasters can cause contamination of some sort to the water supply.  Immediately after a major disaster (earthquake, tornado, whatever), shut off the water supply to your home at the valve that goes to the water main outside.  This step helps in keeping possible polluted water out of the house's water supply.

Storing water is a big undertaking, but essential.  Water takes up space, lots of it.  And it is heavy, so think through how you will store it, in what types of containers.

Storage of water:

Keep water in a cool, dark place if possible.  If in the garage (where can get warm) at least cover with black garbage bag to get it dark.  Store AWAY from fumes and gases, chemicals, pesticides, etc.  and off the concrete floor, you can put it on shelves or wood.  Periodically check water storage for cloudiness, odor, leaks, etc.  replace as need.  Otherwise water, if stored properly, should store indefinitely.  During cold climates, don't fill containers completely in case the water freezes, you want room for it to expand.

There are small and large containers used to store water.  What you choose will depend on your space, your preference, and cost of course.  A gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds.  Water storage will take up a lot of space, so you will want to learn how to purify water as well.  Think of it this way, a year’s supply of wheat uses less space than a 2 week supply of water!

55+ gallon drums hold a lot of water, but when filled are heavy!!  Too heavy to move without emptying it some (55 gallons at 8 pounds a gallon is 440 pounds).  But it stores a lot in less space than say one gallon jugs.  (You’d need 55 gallon jugs to have the same amount of water that fits in one 55 gallon drum).  So in the case of a larger family, drums might be the way to go since they are more space friendly.  But, because they can’t be moved easily, you may want some smaller containers as well, in case you need to leave your home.  This would be wise for the 72 hour kit—to have smaller containers, plus ways to purify.

Containers:

All containers should be food grade.  Cleaned thoroughly—sanitized (see below).  Leak-proof.

Milk jugs:  can be used for shorter periods of time, the plastic begins to break down over time.  They tend to leak within a few months to a year, depending on where and how stored.

Pop, juice, syrup, etc. bottles:  a good choice for smaller containers, oddly shaped though and can’t be stacked easily, so take up more space.

Drums:  large, space efficient in some respects, costly at the get go, but the cost might be worth it in space saved…   Will also need a bung wrench and pump to remove water stored in them.  HEAVY when filled.  

Other containers:  don’t use metal (it can corrode, rust), glass can break and is heavier than plastic, containers that contained cleaning agents, etc

Sanitizing containers to be used:  wash + rinse bottles thoroughly.  Fill with about 1 qt water, add ¼ c. bleach.  Put lid on, shake vigorously and turn upside down to get the cap too.  Let stand 2-3 min.  Pour bleach water into next container to be sanitized and repeat process.  (same water can be used for more than one container).  After containers have been swished with bleach water, fill with purified water, label (be sure to label that it was purified water and the date it was prepared).

Methods to purify:

Boil:  most preferred, easiest.  Boil vigorously 5-10 min.  Cool, pour between clean containers to aerate. 

Distill:  extension to boiling. Boil water and collect the water vapor that condenses on the lid.  This water won’t have other impurities.  Fill large pot with water.  Tie a cup or small pie plate to handle of pot lid (lid will be upside down, cup upside up, but not touching water being boiled).   This method also works to make fresh water out of salt water.  Instead of boiling, can use sun to heat water--will take longer.

Filters:  commercial filters, follow directions

Chlorine Bleach:  don’t use if cloudy* water or other noticeable sediments.  Must first remove all large particles (filter water through cloth, several layers, several times if need, then chlorinate).  1/4 to 1/2 t per gallon of water let stand 30 min, should have a slight chlorine odor, if not repeat and let stand 15 min. before using.  Use fresh bleach, if it is older, you will have to double the amount.  If too much chlorine is used, cramps, vomiting or diarrhea can be a problem.

*if water is cloudy, first try to filter as noted, if still cloudy double the amount of bleach.

Other chemical treatments:  water purification tablets:  check types/purposes/what they purify against, etc.  also check expiration dates.  Follow directions and allow sufficient time for the chemical to work before you try to use the water.  

Water sources in & around the home:

Water heater (turn off gas/electric supply, close main water valve, open water faucet, drain water  from drain plug at bottom—don’t turn on electric or gas until intake valve reopened and tank is full of water again)

water softener containers, toilet tank

Canned fruits and veggies, juices, soups, other high moisture foods.

If more than one level to home:  drain water that is in your pipes (turn off main water supply first, open a faucet on top floor and open faucet on lowest level—to collect any water left in pipes).

Dew in the morning:  mop up with clean T-shirt or towel and squeeze into clean container, purify by boiling or other methods.

make a still in yard:  use to collect water from the ground that is evaporating.  dig a hole, and using plastic, rocks, container and if have a clean tube, collect distilled water.  Uses heat from the sun to cause evaporation and distillation of water.  If don’t have a big hole, can use two pots (on inside of the other, or a glass jar inside a pot, with the plastic weighted down like below.  2 stills should provide enough water for 1 person each day.

Water from plants:  wrap a tree branch or other plant with plastic, water will condense onto plastic; also certain types of plants indicate water in the ground around it (still have to remove and purify).

Miscellaneous Monday: Levels of Preparedness

Today I want to share what I consider some of the different levels of preparedness & living providently.  Many preparedness books/websites have different levels and steps you can follow in order to get anything from very basic to luxurious kits & supplies for preparedness.  I suggest getting at least basic supplies and knowledge to help you survive, but some of the more advanced or luxury items can help those emergencies turn from simple survival to enduring with comfort.  For each area of your life you will need to determine what level you want to experience:  basic survival or enduring & living with comfort.  When this is decided it will help you determine what supplies and knowledge to obtain.  Perhaps you want a basic 72 hour kit, but a more advanced home storage.  A very basic 72 hour wouldn't include foods that need to be heated/cooked, whereas a more advance one could.  Perhaps you like basic budgets or more advanced ones that include specifics in different incomes and outgoings.  Do you want a home storage that is simply for basic survival if you can't get those items otherwise because of financial difficulty or emergencies or do you want one that allows you to have enough on hand at all times that you never (or at least hardly ever) have to pay full price for products because you stock up on items when they are on sale?  These are just some things to consider when you decide what and how much to store and learn.

BASICS--SURVIVAL MODE:  The first step or level would be to get the very basics--whether you decide to buy pre-made kits or to put your own together.  The very basics would simply supply the necessities for survival for a specified time period (72 hour, 1 month, 1 year, etc).  This level would also include basic knowledge.  Basic first aid, basic food preparation, use of the basic products you have bought, etc.

ADVANCED--SURVIVE & ENDURE MODE:  the next level or step is to buy/make and have knowledge of more than the basics.  Adding things for comfort, entertainment, food preparation, powerless cooking, etc. to your supplies and knowledge for the specified amount of time you want.

LIVING PROVIDENTLY--LIVE WELL MODE:  I consider this to be the level where you can not only survive, but endure & live well during times of plenty as well as times of scarcity.  This is where you have the supplies and knowledge you need to survive and endure emergencies and life with at least some degree of comfort.   Being able to buy things only when they are on sale because you have enough on hand would fall under this level.  You rotate through your supplies, learning how to use them in ways you like and being able to replenish your supplies.

These are my thoughts on some of the levels of preparedness, they aren't fact or anything.  I simply share them to help in deciding what kinds of products and knowledge you want to have for possible future events that are beyond your control.  I hope these thoughts help.

Saturday School: Wonder Box Oven

Alternative Cooking Method:  Wonder Box Oven

A wonderbox oven is an insulating oven--meaning it doesn't bring heat to the food and heat it up, but rather it helps food that has already been heated retain that heat and thereby continue to cook.

Pros:  If you have limited fuel or simply don't want to use a lot of fuel in cooking your food, you can bring it to the temperature it is needed to bake/cook (most likely you will need to bring it to a boil for 3-5 minutes), then you transfer your pot with a lid to the wonder box oven and allow the retained heat to continue cooking the food.

Cons:  You will need a different heat source before you can use this method to continue cooking your food.  You will need to make your own.  Finding bean bag stuffing at a store near you may or may not be hard, but it is available on-line  (I got mine from Wal-mart).  I suggest using cotton or denim materials.

Directions for how to make a wonderbox oven are available online.  Here is the website I found very helpful in making my own wonderbox oven (includes pics of the process of making one):  http://www.iwillprepare.com/cooking_files/Wonder_Box.htm

Another great resource is:  http://foodstoragemadeeasy.net/fsme/docs/wonderbox.pdf

So after getting the instructions, you will need to make your own pattern.  I used cardboard to make mine.  You will need to measure out the lengths and angle measurements (thought you were done with math and geometry right?).   The bottom pattern I had to tape on a little extra cardboard to get it the right size.

Once you have your pattern, you can then trace and cut your fabric (you will need 4 of both pattern pieces).  Follow the instructions on how & where to start sewing and such.  Leave a wide enough gap to fill both the top and the bottom with bean bag fill.  Be sure to not over-fill, you need to be able to put your pot in it.

Once the bean bag filling is in, you can sew the gap closed.  And you are done, ta da.

The above simply shows that a large pot can fit.  Below is where brown rice was brought to a boil for about 10 minutes, then transferred to the wonderbox oven to continue cooking for another 2-3 hours (even if you leave it longer, it stays warm and doesn't over-cook).

 

There are different types of insulating ovens, wonderbox is just one.  Another can be made easily by using a large icechest/cooler and pillows for insulation.  Either way, it helps cut down on the amount of fuel needed.

Wednesday Why: Emergency/Evacuation Plans

Today's question:  How do I prepare for a possible evacuation?  What should I take with me?

There are many situations that may require you to evacuate your home for safety reasons.  Here are just a few examples:  hurricanes & other major storms, wild fires (or simply fires that haven't been contained), man-made disturbances (like political unrest), flooding.

For any major public disaster, neighborhoods & cities will most likely be on their own for at least 3 days--as local and state/national resources may be damaged and/or the access be limited due to local damage to roadways and such.  When help is available, emergency responses will be prioritized.  So, what do you do?  Do you shelter in place or evacuate?

If you decide to shelter in place (because there isn't a mandatory evacuation), remember that you will need to have available enough food, water, medicine, hygiene, cooking/heating/cooling fuels to keep you for at least 3-5 days, if not longer; you will need to determine if you will remain safe during and after the disaster;  you will also need to be ready to leave if safety or local officials order an mandatory evacuation.  If you decide to disregard mandatory evacuations, you are putting your safety (and any who stay with you) as well as any responders who may have to rescue you at a later date in jeopardy.  Remember evacuations are for your safety.

If you decide to or need to evacuate, you will need to have a plan before hand of where to go, how to get there, and what to take with you and what needs to be done before/after the evacuation.

Where to go/how to get there:  do you have family/friends a few hours away/out of state you can stay with, do/will you have funds to stay at a hotel, will you need to stay at an emergency shelter for those evacuated?  Do you have alternate routes to get to your destination (in an evacuation roads can be crammed) and know these enough to use them-or have maps you could use?

What to take with you (or have with you if sheltering in place):  identifying documents (that show you live in the area--besides drivers license, a bill or other document showing your address)--the reason is after an emergency sometimes only those who can prove they live in the area are allowed back in; cash--if the electric is out your credit/debit card won't work, small bills are better than large ones; basic food and water, clothing, hygiene items (basically a 72 hour kit) and distraction items (games, things to occupy you while you wait the disaster out)--enough for at least 3 days is good.

What to do before/after a disaster whether or not there is an evacuation:  If you have the benefit of advance notice of a possible disaster, you have the advantage to be able to fill up your vehicle, get cash, clean your home, check the condition and status of everything you own (take pics for insurance purposes), purchase any fresh foods you would like to have on hand, have your emergency supplies ready and in working condition, contact your out of area contact, fill up cleaned bathtubs, etc. Why do these things?  Gas stations will be full of vehicles trying to get gas in and near disaster areas, if they have gas.  If the electric is out credit/debit cards won't work.  After a disaster there may not be running water/clean water available to clean with so you want to have your home as clean as possible to return to (obviously disasters can cause a mess in your once clean home, but it would be better to hope for that clean home rather than knowing you have a mess to come to because you left it in a mess).  Take pictures of everything you have insured--and even if you don't have it insured so you know what you might want/need to replace in the event things are lost or destroyed.  During and after a disaster if supplies (food, gas, fuels, etc) are even available you may not be able to get to them.  Let your contact person know of your plans (staying/going) and when you plan to next contact them--and when they should start in earnest contacting you if they haven't heard from you.  Also, if you haven't already gotten items that may be needed to clean-up/repair your home and yard, it may be wise to do so--like tarps, hammers, nails, etc.  Also before a projected disaster, remove any items from your yard/patio/deck that could become projectiles/blow/float away.  If you expect the electric to go out, unplug anything you feel safe doing so--like TVs, computers, etc.  Move to high ground any items you fear may get wet if water were to come into your home--like put the dresser drawers on top of the dresser or bed or the stuff in the bottom kitchen cupboards onto the counter.

And of course close up, seal up, and lock up all doors & windows before leaving.

I hope these ideas help in making a family plan on what to do and plan for should a disaster come and require evacuation.  Plan and use what works for your family, preparing can be and is a lot of work, but wouldn't you rather that planning and preparation be in place for the unexpected (or even expected) than wish it you had...

Wednesday Why: Shelf-Stable Meals/Menu

What are some shelf stable meals?  And what is an example of a 1 month shelf stable meal menu?  When I say shelf stable I mean food items that can remain on a pantry/cupboard shelf until opened.  Also if using dehydrated foods, will need to store more water to rehydrate these items compared to their canned counterparts.

Some great meals that can be made using shelf stable food items are:  Soups, chilis, noodle dishes, rice dishes, baking mix foods, cereals/grains; all with canned/dehydrated fruits and veggies as sides.

Specifically:
Soups/Chilis:  canned soups/chilis or homemade using: broths, canned/dehydrated veggies & meats, canned/dry beans, pasta sauces, salsas, tomato sauces, jarred sauces and rice or noodles.
Noodle dishes:  Make casseroles, soups or pasta/sauce dishes.  Simply add canned/dehydrated meats, veggies, condensed soups, jarred sauces/salsas and seasonings to taste.  Like spaghetti or other noodles with pasta sauce, canned noodle dishes (like ravioli, Spaghetti O's, etc.), boxed or homemade Mac & cheese (using jarred cheese sauce or velveeta since these don't have to be refrigerated until opened), ramen noodles.
Rice dishes:  casseroles or soups using rice.  Simply add canned/dehydrated meats, veggies, condensed soups, jarred sauces/salsas and seasonings to taste, just like with noodles.
Potato dishes (using potato flakes):  Make up flakes to mashed potatoes, add canned/dehyrdrated meats/veggies/condensed soups and seasonings to make casseroles--using mashed potatoes as a crust of sorts
Potato dishes (using dehydrated potato dices, slices, shreds, etc):  make casseroles by adding condensed soups, canned/dehydrated meats or veggies and seasonings.
Baking Mix dishes/foods:  pancakes, biscuits, waffles, pot pie/pie/cobbler crusts/topping, cornbread, breads, some cakes and cookies
Cereals/Grains:  using dry milk for drinking milk and thereby the milk in cereals, oatmeals, grits, cracked wheat cereal.  Make wheat cereal with wheat berries or cracked wheat and sweetener/jam.  Crackers are a great 72 hour kit item, but also great for meals at home--use with tuna/canned chicken, PB&J or cheese.

Sample 1 month menu using shelf stable meals:

You may have other favorites that already use or could use shelf stable items in place of fresh.  When you find a meal that your family likes that uses only shelf stable items, then write it down and add it to your rotation.

When making your own menu, you can choose any number of breakfasts, lunches and dinners, I chose 7 different meals to rotate through, you can do more or less.  Then simply stock up on the items needed to make those meals--even though these items are shelf stable, you will want to use and rotate through them before the expiration date.

Hope this helps in giving ideas on meals that can be made when the fridge/freezer isn't working.  All of these meals can be made using an alternative cooking method if the electricity is out.  I originally put this menu together a few years back in preparation for hurricane season, knowing that if one hit, the electric could be out for anywhere between a day to a couple of weeks days.

Saturday School: Volcano Grill

Alternative Cooking Method:  Volcano Grill

Pros:  Versatile.  It is versatile in the kind of cooking as well as the fuel used to cook.  It can be used with skillets, woks, dutch ovens, griddles, or other pots and pans, with sticks for roasting or simply as a grill.  Cook, fry, bake (with dutch oven or oven lid), or grill all on one stove.  It can use wood, charcoal or propane (with attachment) for fuel.  Collapsible.  It sets up and collapses down easily.  The outside doesn't get overly warm or hot, so it is safe to use near children--the outside won't burn them if they accidentally touch it (caution and supervision should always be exercised when using any cooking method, especially when children are around).   The carry case makes it much more manageable and easy to transport for sure--though it is easily moved when it is set up.  Works when windy.

Cons:  Costs more than some of the other methods.  Though it isn't incredibly heavy, it is heavier than other methods (like a can stove or butane stove).  Shouldn't use if raining (helps it last longer and not rust).

How to set up:  Pull up on the handle.  Yes it is that easy!  The legs automatically swing out and the chamber automatically expand when the handle is pulled up on.  Once expanded, it is ready for use with wood or charcoal.  If using a propane attachment, it will need to be set up before being able to cook.  I prefer using charcoal chimneys or can stoves to get charcoal going--it seemed easier to get it going than simply right in the Volcano, but you can start the charcoal or wood right in the stove if want/need.

Position the stove to where you want it while cooking, before starting the wood, charcoal or propane.

To take down after cooking:  Once the charcoal or wood has cooled off, remove any large pieces.  Empty stove of ash by tipping it over carefully.  Once the ash is out, wipe out with damp cloth to remove any remaining ash or residue.  Dry--I usually do it when it is still warm so it dries pretty quick.  After it is washed and dried, lightly oil it on the inside--a very light coating of peanut or vegetable oil helps protect the inside of the stove.  Collapse by putting hands on bottom, pull up.  The legs should go in automatically and the chamber collapse.

Put into the carry case, store horizontal (best, but if had to could store vertical).

Note:  If there isn't time to wait for the coals to cool off, like in the case of a storm or rain shower moving in, move hot coals and ash to a empty #10 can, can stove or area where it won't start a fire--you can douse it with water if you want to help them cool off -after removing them from the stove--don't douse your stove with water.  The stove may be warm or even hot, so use hot pads to tip the ash out, wipe clean and oil carefully.

Taking it down and caring for it before putting it away is a little more involved but worth it to preserve the stove and make it nicer to use the next time.

Another note: the propane attachment is for 15-20 lb propane tanks, not the small kind that are used for camp stoves.  Although you may be able to use a propane valve adapter to be able to use the small 1 lb propane tanks.

PRICES:  I am listing 2 sources--because I have ordered things from these sources in the past and have been satisfied with both the product(s) and the service.  There are other sources, including amazon, some may be more or less, just remember to factor in shipping costs and if you trust the source or not.

Emergency Essentials (www.beprepared.com):  stove only: 98.95; stove with propane attachment: 139.95; Combo (stove, propane attachment, oven lid, cookbook, skewers):  184.95.  Oven lid by itself: 24.95; skewers:  11.95; manual/cookbook:  19.95; propane attachment:  58.95

Food Storage Made Easy (www.foodstoragemadeeasy.net):  stove only:  109.95; stove with propane attachment:  149.95; Combo (stove, propane attachment, oven lid, cookbook, trivet, dutch oven lid lifter, roast rack, propane valve adapter--adapts to be be able to use the small 1 lb propane tanks):  259.95 free shipping.

First Aid Friday: Alternative Cooking Safety

BE SAFE when cooking food.  The slide below comes from an alternative cooking class slideshow I did recently.  It simply reminds us of some of the things we need to do or think about when cooking using any method or fuel.  Be sure to follow any instructions that come with your grill or stove.  Also, before hand make sure the weather conditions are ok to cook in--windy, rainy, lightning, etc.  

I would suggest trying any alternative cooking method outdoors away from any structures or flammable items when using for the first time--including butane stoves or other indoor safe methods--until you are familiar with how to use it, what to cook with it, etc.

Thrifty Thursday: Alternative Cooking Fuel Costs

Today I want to share some costs per meal when it comes to alternative cooking fuels.  I hope these cost estimations help in planning what and how much of any kind of fuel you will use/store to cook without electricity (and thereby the methods you plan to use).  These are just estimations based on my own calculations, they aren’t fact.

I highly suggest using the sun as much as possible, and also making either a wonder box oven or an ice-chest insulating oven to conserve fuel--you’d only need to use enough fuel to bring the food to a boil, plus the time to bring the actual food to a boil temperature (example:  white rice 3-5 minutes, brown rice 10-15 minutes beyond the water boiling).  By using the sun and an insulating oven, you are able to cut down on the amount of fuel you will need--great for those with limited storage space!  Beyond these suggestions, I suggest a variety of methods--1 or 2 that can be used indoors, and 1 or 2 that can be used outdoors--because conditions and situations vary.  See Saturday's post for a handout on possible methods and fuels.

Cost effectiveness of some alternative cooking fuels:  solar energy (sunshine), charcoal, propane gas, butane gas, sterno fuel and Fired-Up (uses Insta-fire technology).  For these, I used prices obtained from Walmart (except the butane fuel &  Fired-Up).  If you find sales, go online, or go to Sam’s club you may find a better deal.

The SUN:  Solar ovens use energy from the sun to heat and cook food.  Beyond the initial cost of the solar oven, the fuel is free!  Each area has an average amount of sunny days.  In the coastal empire/low-country about 60-65% of the year is sunny on average.  Great odds for free cooking!  FUEL COST:  FREE!

CHARCOAL:  OUTDOOR use only.  Charcoal grills, dutch ovens, box ovens, can stoves and other grills can use charcoal.  FUEL COST:  Using Walmart’s price:  8.48 for 16.6 lbs--about 51 to 53 cents per meal-if using only about 18-20 charcoal per meal; if you are able to buy at Sam’s club or on sale this price will be less.  (Sam’s club sells 2-20 lb bags for 16.68--if each pound is about 1 meals worth than the cost per meal will be around 42 cents a meal)

  

Based on my own calculations, a 16.6 lb bag of Kingsford original charcoal has about 300-320 full briquettes  That makes for about 18-20 briquettes a pound--which is just right for 1 meal if just grilling, stick roasting or cooking.  So about 16 meals per 16.6 lb bag of charcoal or about a pound of charcoal per meal.

The amount of charcoal needed per meal varies on the type of cooking/baking you will be doing.  But in general plan for 15-50 charcoal per meal (more if dutch oven baking, less if just stick cooking, grilling or boiling water).  Depending on the brand and type of charcoal, each briquette can give off between 20-50*F (averaging around 35*F).

If using a 12” dutch oven, you will need 23-33 charcoal briquettes to cook/bake a dish(325-450* respectively).  If something needs to bake more than 1-2 hours you will need to add more charcoal.

Grills--depends on the size, but smaller portable/foldup grills need less charcoal.  Grills around and smaller than 14” use about 16-30 briquettes for direct grilling, larger grills (18-27”) can use upwards 40 to 80 briquettes at a time for direct grilling.

Box ovens:  to get a temperature of about 350* you will need 10-12 briquettes, adding more if baking long periods of time.

Can stoves:  10-12 briquettes for homemade ones, you can use more or less depending on how much heat you want and how long you want to cook.

PROPANE:  OUTDOOR use only.  Propane grills, camp stoves use propane.  1 lb of propane can give out about 22,000 BTUs (based on what I’ve read) or about 1-2 hours of burning on high or 4-6 hours of a simmer or burning on low.

Double burner campstove with 10000BTU per burner:  if burning on high on both burners, a small 1 lb propane canister will last about 1 hour, maybe a little more.  If burning on low on only one of the burners it could last up to 4 or 5 hours.  If 1 meal is 30 minutes worth of burning time (on high) on 1 burner, then about 4 meals worth out of one canister.  FUEL COST for those small green ~1 lb size tanks:  Walmart’s propane cost:  2 canisters for 5.37--about 2.69/tank.  About 67 cents per meal.  If both burners are needed on high for 30 minutes--only 2 meals per canister--or about $1.35/meal.

Gas grills:  each gas grill has a different BTU amount and a different amount of burners, so it will really vary how long a 15-20 lb propane tank will last.  But, from what I’ve read, a 20 lb propane tank can burn for around 366,000 to 430,000 BTUs.  If using only one burner at 15,000 BTUs, you could get about 20-28 meals out of a 20 lb tank.  FUEL COST for those white 15-20 lb tanks:   Walmart tank+gas:  43.92--about $2.20/meal (assuming you can get 20 meals out of the tank); Walmart exchange (you bring in your empty tank): 17.82-- about 89 cents per meal (again assuming 20 meals per tank).

PROPANE GAS/TANK NOTE:  These figures are based on what I have read, they aren’t fact, so just be aware, you may find you get more or less out of your tank.

BUTANE GAS:  WELL-VENTILATED areas use only.  Butane stoves use butane gas.  Locally, in the low-country, a butane stove can be bought for 33.75, and a fuel canister can be bought for 3.10.  One fuel canister can burn on high for 1-2 hours, or on simmer (low) for 4-5 hours.  FUEL COST:  If one meal is 30 minutes on high--cost per meal will be between $.78 and $1.55.  This is one of the more pricey fuels, but also one of the few that can be used indoors if it is well-ventilated.

STERNO GELLED FUEL:  WELL-VENTILATED areas use only.  Sterno fold up stoves, as well as other foldup stoves can use sterno canned fuel.  A 7 oz can of sterno fuel can burn for about 2 hours; a 2.6 oz can will burn for about 45 minutes (according to the sterno website:  http://www.sterno.com/pro/pages/faq.html  see for more information and FAQs)  Based on these figures, and my own timing that it takes a good 30 minutes just to bring a quart of water to boil, one sterno can of 7 oz will be enough for 2-3 meals.  FUEL COST:  Walmart sells 2 pack for 4.88--between about 81 cents and $1.22 per meal.  Online, they sell a 6 pack for 13.97 (.78 to $1.16 per meal).

FIRED UP:  OUTDOOR use, or if in fireplace or wood-burning stove--a well-ventilated area use.  Fold up stoves, and other small or portable grills/stoves work great for Fired Up, bigger stoves and grills will work, but more Fired Up will be required.  1-2 cups of Fired Up will burn for about 20-30 minutes--enough to bring water to a boil.   A #10 can of Fired Up at Emergency Essentials costs $11.95, there are about 12 cups in a can--so about 6 meals worth at 2 cups a meal. A four gallon bucket costs 47.95, which according to my calculations will have about 64 cups, or about 32 meals worth at 2 cups a meal.   FUEL COST for a #10 can of Fired Up:  $1.99/meal (when using 2 cups per meal); for a 4 gallon bucket of Fired Up:  $1.50/meal (when using 2 cups per meal).  These costs can be lessened if using only 1 cup (so to bring less water to a boil for less time, or to use as a starter for wood or charcoal).  I have found that 3 to 4 tablespoons works well in getting charcoal going in a charcoal chimney or homemade can stove, with periodic stirring.