Showing posts with label organization. Show all posts
Showing posts with label organization. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Wednesday Why: Researching Products

Wednesday Why:  How do I research a product to determine if I want to buy it or not?

My first choice is to always try the product firsthand.  Whether it is an appliance, a book for homeschool, an item of clothing or a garden tool, I like to be able to see, hold, try the product before deciding to buy it.  This allows me to see if it fits, if it will work in the way I want & hope, if it seems durable, if it will be usable, etc.

But, there are many times I am not able to actually try the product--how often does [store name] let you actually use a blender before buying it, not likely.  Clothing can generally be tried on, but most appliances, tools, and anything else aren't likely to be allowed a test-run before you buy it.  So what do you do then?

If you have friends that have used and recommend a product, that is always helpful.  But on your own, you can read customer reviews, read trouble-shooting guides to get an idea of what possible problems the product may have, try to see if there are any recalls or known defects that are common for that product--some of these pop up in customer reviews--like when many customer reviews mention the same kind of problem they had with the product (like a certain type of TV that has issues with the remote that comes with it within a short time period, or a washer that develops problems agitating after only a year, or an MP3 player that stops working after a few months).

Also, besides the actual reviews and such of the product, I try to think about the actual usage of the product.  Is it something I will use often, occasionally or really only once or twice a year?  Is it something that will make life easier with its use, or more complicated--finding space for it, safety issues, increasing expenditures, etc?  Is it something worth storing for the few times it may be used?  Is it going to pay for itself in usage, time saved, sanity saved--some items may not literally pay for themselves like some energy efficient products compared to non-energy efficient products, but because they make life easier or more manageable they pay for themselves in sanity.  An example of this for me is the gamma lid for buckets--more expensive compared to the regular lids that go with buckets, but oh so much easier to use!!!  Many times over have I been happy I splurged on a gamma lid over a regular bucket lid for using to store food storage--I did wait for them to go on sale of course.

I hope these thoughts help to determine what the best value for you money, time, & sanity is when buying or not buying a product as the case may be.  It's true I may not do this thorough of research for every product, but have found it helpful when I do--it has saved me money as I've been able to either determine through the time, effort, and information I found I decided I didn't want the product or been able to find a better deal--meaning a better quality product sometimes for cheaper sometimes not.

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Wednesday Why: Vacuum Sealing Bread Products

Have you ever tried to vacuum seal bread or bread products?  Is it possible to do so without squishing the bread?  As you can see in the picture below, there is a way to seal bread and a way not too--unless you don't mind really compact bread.  On the left are hotdog buns that were simply put into the vacuum sealing bag and then vacuum sealed--a big mess of mashed buns that don't go back to bun shape once taken out.  On the right are hamburger buns that were first put into a ziploc bag, and as much air removed as possible, then put into a vacuum sealing bag and vacuum sealed.  The buns stayed in their original shape.  If you don't think you will be using bread products within a short time, you may want to vacuum seal them, but I would suggest using ziploc (or generic) bags first so that your bread doesn't get all mashed.
Other vacuum sealing hints and tips:  slightly freeze meats first--otherwise the vacuum sealer will be sucking a lot of juices (blood) out of them, also they keep better shape--like bread--if slightly frozen first.  Make sure the bag you are using is the proper size--too small and it won't be able to vacuum seal properly, too big and well you are wasting bag--unless you are going to be cutting it open, using some of the contents and then resealing it then you aren't wasting bag--but actually saving since you are reusing.  LABEL!  Always label what you store in your freezer, on the shelf, etc.--it really is amazing how you can forget or can't identify things if they aren't labeled correctly.  ROTATE!  Just because something is frozen does not mean it will last forever--frozen food has a freezer life just like canned food has a shelf life--freezing only slows down microorganisms it doesn't kill them, also taste, texture and nutrition does change over time.

Monday, April 8, 2013

Make A Plan Monday: Freezer Inventory

April Showers...Freezing Food

Have you ever forgotten you had this or that because it wasn't out in the open or wasn't written down in an inventory?  Have you ever had to throw out food because it didn't get eaten in time or it got freezer burn--or you couldn't identify it?

Today I want to share my thoughts on keeping a freezer inventory and how I label foods I freeze, at least when I'm being good about labeling that is.  Freezing food does NOT make it last forever, or even years.  Freezing simply slows down the processes that cause food to go bad, it does not stop or kill the organisms--that is why once you defrost food it has to be used and can't just stay on the counter or in the fridge for long periods of time.  Some foods freeze better and longer than others, so besides inventorying your food, you should learn how to best freeze it and how long to freeze it for best results.

Inventories for your freezer, as well as other food (pantry, food storage, etc) is a good way to keep track of what you have and what you need to rotate through.  Below is a very simple freezer inventory that I have used with success--meaning I know what I have and can make a plan to use it while it is nutritionally, taste, texture and sight wise the best.

An inventory can be made on the computer or written out by hand, either works.

From the tables, a freezer inventory includes the type of food, amount, when to use it by and location, the date you put it in can also be included, but I think the more important date is the use by date.  Some freezer foods come with use by dates on them, others don't.  In general for home goods--leftovers, freezer meals, things like that I try to use them up within 1 month.  For meats, and store bought goods I follow basic freezer guidelines that can be found in food preserving books & resources, or in general I say 1-3 months for those things, depending if they are raw or cooked.  For things like flour, yeast, dried foods, etc. I use a 6-12 month time frame.

When I use something, I change the amount if I didn't use all of it, or I cross it off my list if I used all of it.  Yes, this means that every month or so a new inventory is needed to keep it up to date.  Most foods don't last long enough for a freezer inventory to only be updated once a year or even once every 6 months; it will need to be updated frequently so I keep mine on the fridge.  You can keep both the fridge freezer and the chest/upright freezer (if have one) inventories on one page or do a separate inventory for each one.  A separate one would be handy if the foods in the chest freezer are longer storage foods that can be stored 3-12 months instead of 1-3 months.  In the example above, I put them together.

The type of food, the type of container and the freezer temperature all play a part in how well and how long the food will maintain nutrition, taste, & texture.  By having an inventory, you will be able to know what needs to be used, and when it needs to be used so that food doesn't go to waste.  Also, by properly preparing and labeling foods when they are put into a freezer, waste can be limited.

When I label foods, besides simply saying what the food is (if not store bought), I put the date I am freezing it as well as the date I hope to use it by, plus any other information that would be helpful like bake temps and times, if it isn't something that doesn't already have that on it.

Examples:  store bought lasagna:  leave in packaging, label with date bought and date to use by; homemade lasagna:  freeze in pan going to use to cook it--if using disposable pan can leave it in it, if using regular baking pan, freeze in pan than remove from pan; wrap in plastic wrap and aluminum foil, and place in a freezer bag--labeling lasagna, date frozen and when to use it by, along with bake temp and times if frozen or thawed.

Properly preparing, labeling and inventorying food for the freezer can help limit food waste.  It can also help the food budget as foods aren't wasted, and foods can be bought and made in bulk.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Wednesday Why: Emergency/Evacuation Plans

Today's question:  How do I prepare for a possible evacuation?  What should I take with me?

There are many situations that may require you to evacuate your home for safety reasons.  Here are just a few examples:  hurricanes & other major storms, wild fires (or simply fires that haven't been contained), man-made disturbances (like political unrest), flooding.

For any major public disaster, neighborhoods & cities will most likely be on their own for at least 3 days--as local and state/national resources may be damaged and/or the access be limited due to local damage to roadways and such.  When help is available, emergency responses will be prioritized.  So, what do you do?  Do you shelter in place or evacuate?

If you decide to shelter in place (because there isn't a mandatory evacuation), remember that you will need to have available enough food, water, medicine, hygiene, cooking/heating/cooling fuels to keep you for at least 3-5 days, if not longer; you will need to determine if you will remain safe during and after the disaster;  you will also need to be ready to leave if safety or local officials order an mandatory evacuation.  If you decide to disregard mandatory evacuations, you are putting your safety (and any who stay with you) as well as any responders who may have to rescue you at a later date in jeopardy.  Remember evacuations are for your safety.

If you decide to or need to evacuate, you will need to have a plan before hand of where to go, how to get there, and what to take with you and what needs to be done before/after the evacuation.

Where to go/how to get there:  do you have family/friends a few hours away/out of state you can stay with, do/will you have funds to stay at a hotel, will you need to stay at an emergency shelter for those evacuated?  Do you have alternate routes to get to your destination (in an evacuation roads can be crammed) and know these enough to use them-or have maps you could use?

What to take with you (or have with you if sheltering in place):  identifying documents (that show you live in the area--besides drivers license, a bill or other document showing your address)--the reason is after an emergency sometimes only those who can prove they live in the area are allowed back in; cash--if the electric is out your credit/debit card won't work, small bills are better than large ones; basic food and water, clothing, hygiene items (basically a 72 hour kit) and distraction items (games, things to occupy you while you wait the disaster out)--enough for at least 3 days is good.

What to do before/after a disaster whether or not there is an evacuation:  If you have the benefit of advance notice of a possible disaster, you have the advantage to be able to fill up your vehicle, get cash, clean your home, check the condition and status of everything you own (take pics for insurance purposes), purchase any fresh foods you would like to have on hand, have your emergency supplies ready and in working condition, contact your out of area contact, fill up cleaned bathtubs, etc. Why do these things?  Gas stations will be full of vehicles trying to get gas in and near disaster areas, if they have gas.  If the electric is out credit/debit cards won't work.  After a disaster there may not be running water/clean water available to clean with so you want to have your home as clean as possible to return to (obviously disasters can cause a mess in your once clean home, but it would be better to hope for that clean home rather than knowing you have a mess to come to because you left it in a mess).  Take pictures of everything you have insured--and even if you don't have it insured so you know what you might want/need to replace in the event things are lost or destroyed.  During and after a disaster if supplies (food, gas, fuels, etc) are even available you may not be able to get to them.  Let your contact person know of your plans (staying/going) and when you plan to next contact them--and when they should start in earnest contacting you if they haven't heard from you.  Also, if you haven't already gotten items that may be needed to clean-up/repair your home and yard, it may be wise to do so--like tarps, hammers, nails, etc.  Also before a projected disaster, remove any items from your yard/patio/deck that could become projectiles/blow/float away.  If you expect the electric to go out, unplug anything you feel safe doing so--like TVs, computers, etc.  Move to high ground any items you fear may get wet if water were to come into your home--like put the dresser drawers on top of the dresser or bed or the stuff in the bottom kitchen cupboards onto the counter.

And of course close up, seal up, and lock up all doors & windows before leaving.

I hope these ideas help in making a family plan on what to do and plan for should a disaster come and require evacuation.  Plan and use what works for your family, preparing can be and is a lot of work, but wouldn't you rather that planning and preparation be in place for the unexpected (or even expected) than wish it you had...

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Wednesday Why: Shelf-Stable Meals/Menu

What are some shelf stable meals?  And what is an example of a 1 month shelf stable meal menu?  When I say shelf stable I mean food items that can remain on a pantry/cupboard shelf until opened.  Also if using dehydrated foods, will need to store more water to rehydrate these items compared to their canned counterparts.

Some great meals that can be made using shelf stable food items are:  Soups, chilis, noodle dishes, rice dishes, baking mix foods, cereals/grains; all with canned/dehydrated fruits and veggies as sides.

Specifically:
Soups/Chilis:  canned soups/chilis or homemade using: broths, canned/dehydrated veggies & meats, canned/dry beans, pasta sauces, salsas, tomato sauces, jarred sauces and rice or noodles.
Noodle dishes:  Make casseroles, soups or pasta/sauce dishes.  Simply add canned/dehydrated meats, veggies, condensed soups, jarred sauces/salsas and seasonings to taste.  Like spaghetti or other noodles with pasta sauce, canned noodle dishes (like ravioli, Spaghetti O's, etc.), boxed or homemade Mac & cheese (using jarred cheese sauce or velveeta since these don't have to be refrigerated until opened), ramen noodles.
Rice dishes:  casseroles or soups using rice.  Simply add canned/dehydrated meats, veggies, condensed soups, jarred sauces/salsas and seasonings to taste, just like with noodles.
Potato dishes (using potato flakes):  Make up flakes to mashed potatoes, add canned/dehyrdrated meats/veggies/condensed soups and seasonings to make casseroles--using mashed potatoes as a crust of sorts
Potato dishes (using dehydrated potato dices, slices, shreds, etc):  make casseroles by adding condensed soups, canned/dehydrated meats or veggies and seasonings.
Baking Mix dishes/foods:  pancakes, biscuits, waffles, pot pie/pie/cobbler crusts/topping, cornbread, breads, some cakes and cookies
Cereals/Grains:  using dry milk for drinking milk and thereby the milk in cereals, oatmeals, grits, cracked wheat cereal.  Make wheat cereal with wheat berries or cracked wheat and sweetener/jam.  Crackers are a great 72 hour kit item, but also great for meals at home--use with tuna/canned chicken, PB&J or cheese.

Sample 1 month menu using shelf stable meals:
You may have other favorites that already use or could use shelf stable items in place of fresh.  When you find a meal that your family likes that uses only shelf stable items, then write it down and add it to your rotation.

When making your own menu, you can choose any number of breakfasts, lunches and dinners, I chose 7 different meals to rotate through, you can do more or less.  Then simply stock up on the items needed to make those meals--even though these items are shelf stable, you will want to use and rotate through them before the expiration date.

Hope this helps in giving ideas on meals that can be made when the fridge/freezer isn't working.  All of these meals can be made using an alternative cooking method if the electricity is out.  I originally put this menu together a few years back in preparation for hurricane season, knowing that if one hit, the electric could be out for anywhere between a day to a couple of weeks days.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Wednesday Why: Shopping List Organization

Shopping lists...  How do I organize my shopping lists and thereby my shopping trip?

The way that has worked best for me is to organize what I want to buy by category.  The two ways I've liked doing lists--1.  by category and then by store or 2.  by store & then by category.  And if I don't use a table, but a simple written list, I organize by store and then within the store list I try to put like items together--like all the produce, all the frozen, etc. 

By organizing my lists I find that I don't forget anything-or at least rarely do as long as it is written down on my list.  When I haven't done it this way, even when I had something written down, I have still forgotten something--this happens the most to me when I simply have a list with no organization as to stores or categories.  This also wastes time sometimes going back and forth throughout the store, rather than hitting each area once.

So here is a sample of a shopping list organized by category.  The items listed below are just to give a sample, and except for Sam's club items, are those that are on sale this week at the respective stores (Kroger and Bi-Lo).   Both of these are the same list, the second one is simply color coded by store.  Whether color coded or not, it helps to put all of one store's items within the category together.
Here is another method--to organize by store and then by category--again very effective to be sure everything gets-gotten and not for-gotten.  Again, these are just sample items using two stores sales from this week, plus some sample items from Sam's club.
These list tables were created using a spreadsheet.  I've used both excel (windows) and numbers (mac), they will both work great for creating shopping lists like those shown above.  I copy the tables over into a word (windows) or pages (mac) document, use text boxes for the "week of"/"store" lines.

This is just the current shopping list table I have in use.  In the past I've had more categories--in addition to the ones shown I also had baking, canned goods, paper goods categories--but to fit everything into the table size I wanted I had to condense & combine my category names.  I now put baking & canned goods items in with packaged, paper products (like trash bags) goes in the non-food/other category.

Possible categories:  meat, dairy, produce, frozen, breads, cereals, hygiene, paper products, canned goods, baking/seasonings, condiments, deli/bakery, non-food, snacks.  Use whatever works best for you.


I highly suggest using a list when shopping--even if it isn't grocery shopping.  If shopping for other items, it is good to have a list so you can have sizes, colors, etc. written down--as well as prices that you've already researched at other stores or on-line.  I even use a list when garage sale-ing--I can write down new price information for the items I am looking for and thereby determine if the used price is a worth while price or not--also if even stopping at certain garage sales is worth it or not.

By having a list, my grocery shopping goes much faster and better.  Because I know exactly what I am looking for I can directly to it.  If I see something on sale that isn't on my list, sometimes I will get it and sometimes not--I first think if the sale price is a good one or not--and is it within my budget, will I need the item and actually use it, could I possibly find it at a better price later, do I have a spot for it once it is home, will I regret not getting it--will I wish I had gotten it tomorrow or next week or next month...  After thinking through these and possibly other questions, you can better determine if you want to get the item or not.

Now, what about grocery shopping phone apps?  If you prefer to use these, find one with the features you like and would actually use.  
Some features to look for:  ability to organize lists according to store, according to category; inventory features (some actually call it inventory, others may use the term pantry); ability to calculate tax, to calculate per unit prices.  
Other features that some apps have--some may have all, one or two additional features or none, determine what you would like to have and would use:  ability to scan barcodes, to access coupons, to access store ads, lowest price records (records the lowest price input by user), recipe & menu storage (some can even create a grocery list based on these), store expiration dates of items and give alerts when they are going to expire.

For me, I prefer the old fashion paper method as shown above.  But, whatever works for you and what you will use is what is best--whatever will help you save money by having to only go to the store once, and by not going back and forth throughout the store multiple times (the longer a person stays in a store, in general also means more money spent).


Monday, May 14, 2012

Make A Plan Monday: Planning


If we don’t plan or organize our homes, times, activities, etc. we may find our lives being too full, too empty, or simply frustrating.  But we can limit the amount of wasted time and space, the amount of frustrations if we will simply seek to organize.
Why want an organized home, schedule, life, etc.?  Personally, I want to have a home and life where my family can feel things like love, peace, comfort and joy-fruits of the spirit.  I want to have a home where most of the time spent as a family is doing things that bring joy.  I want to have a home where decisions can be made easily and willingly.  I believe these things are more likely to be accomplished when we seek to organize ourselves, our home and our time.
Some things that I have found that help accomplish these desires:
  1. Living the gospel of Jesus Christ, really making it a part of who I and the members of my family are.  President Ezra Taft Benson said, "When we put God first, all other things fall into their proper place or drop out of our lives.  Our love of the Lord will govern the claims for our affection, the demands on our time, the interests we pursue, and the order of our priorities."  (Ensign, May 1988).
  2. Taking care of our health.  Getting enough and a proper balance of rest, food, and recreation/exercise.
  3. Individuals within the family take care to fulfill their responsibilities and work together to accomplish goals willingly.
  4. Properly planning and preparing for activities, routines, the day, etc.
  5. Things having a proper place (both in hearts and in home) and being cared for and cleaned regularly.
Some things that I believe may hinder or prevent the above mentioned desires from being accomplished:
  1. Not living the gospel of Jesus Christ daily and fully.
  2. Unbalanced health:  too little or too much sleep, food, exercise.
  3. Individuals within the family are unable or unwilling to fulfill their responsibilities and/or don’t work together well.
  4. Improper planning and preparation for the day, activities
  5. Things not working properly, not taken care of or things not having their own spot or not being put in their own spot; things &/or schedules becoming more important than relationships.
Some examples of planning:  
Time & things:  Most of the time my family is early for church on Sunday. But, occasionally we lose track of time or didn’t properly plan by having everything ready before Sunday--like making sure everything is clean and ironed, or even can be found because it is in its place.  I personally don’t like to be late and so by being organized in time and things, I do more to prevent tardiness.
Budget:  When shopping, if I take time to go through the ads, to write down prices and such, and make menus based on what I already have that needs to be used and on whats on sale, I do a better job of sticking within the budget I have.

Cleaning:  In regards to cleanliness of a home, like surfaces being cleaned regularly, cleanliness is on a pendulum, it comes and goes quickly--though it stays cleaner longer when everyone is asleep or gone.  Things will not stay cleaned indefinitely, especially with kids or pets.  But thinking through the cleaning that needs to be done can help make use of the time and reduce stress caused by repetition.  What I mean by this is like waiting to mop until after the yard work is done so that it won't need to be done again after dirt is tracked in, or cleaning from top to bottom, left to right (or right to left as long as you are consistent) so things don't get dirty again while doing something on top or next to it.  Also planning who is going to do what & when (by what time is it to be done?), as well as how it is to be done--if you want things done a specific way you will need to plan training time into the cleaning time.

Below are some thoughts from a RS class I taught on home organization 4 or 5 years ago.
In order to organize ourselves, our home, etc. we need to consider some basic steps or preparations to do so.  These would include:
1. Desire and motivation to change current habits, lifestyles, living areas, etc. in order to become organized.
2. Have specific goals in mind, write them down, post them where they will be seen, and make sure family members are aware of these goals and can participate.
3. Set your plan in motion.  You can do it, seek the help of the Lord and you will be guided.
4. Periodically schedule a review/evaluation of how things are going, praise yourself for what you have accomplished, decide if and where more changes are needed, etc.

The answers to the following questions will also help to know where to begin, how to tailor a plan for individuals and families and how to not to do more at once than you can handle so we can be diligent in what we do choose to do.

1. Why do you want to be organized?  What goals do you have in regards to becoming organized?
2. What keeps you from being organized, or rather what do you feel hinders you from feeling organized?  (interruptions, health, scheduling, kids, small areas, large areas, no room, etc.)  These things shouldn't give us the go ahead to not be organized, they may slow us down, but certainly shouldn't stop us from reaching our goals.
3. What do you like to do, what would you do with the time &/or freed up by being organized?
4. What is irritating you and/or your family members?  (what's for dinner?, I can't find..., phone interruptions, last minute runs to grab/do this or that..., etc.)
5. Do I really need this/that?  When do I use this?  Could someone else use this more than me?  This of course is referring to items, but could also refer to things eating away our time--TV, activities, etc.
6. Do I think things through before doing them?  Why do I do certain things, or in a certain way--is it really because it is efficient and the best way to do it or simply because don't know another way?  Example:  how clean the bathroom--what do you start and end with, do you end up doing something over again because did it before doing something else?

I hope these questions and thoughts help in making any changes that would make life more bearable, more enjoyable and easier.


Monday, March 19, 2012

Make A Plan Monday: Moving


Have you ever had to move?  It's not exactly an easy task.  It is much easier when you have a plan.

I found the http://pinchalittlesavealot.blogspot.com/ website over the weekend.  It has wonderful free printables that helps plan and organize a move.  Hence the thought to share a post on making a plan when moving.  The picture below is from that website and represents some of the printables in the moving kit, but the website also has many other wonderful printables that can help with household management as well as simply fun holiday printables.

The method used here is color coordinating boxes with rooms, using a different color for each room or area of a home and then when packing boxes marking them simply with the color that corresponds with the room the box should end up in once moved.


Below are some ideas on cutting down when preparing to move and on organization methods while packing/unpacking. (these ideas come from a class I taught on organization/moving organization a few years back)
Ask yourself these questions in determining whether it is worth it to you to keep & move an item with you or to get rid of it by selling, giving or tossing it away.
  1. Does it have a purpose?  Will the item continue to be useful after the move?  Is the item really needed?
  2. Will it have its own place after move?  Or will it be required to be stored out of site (and thereby out of mind)?
  3. Do you love/like/hate the item?  Will it make you happy to see the item again when it is unpacked?
  4. Would it be cheaper to replace the item rather than moving/storing it?  If storing:  does the storage space/cost of storage justify the storage of the items?
Once you decide what to take, you will need to plan and organize your packing and moving.  Whichever method of organizing your move you choose, it is wise to keep an inventory of all possessions, small and great.
Possible methods to organize a move:
A-B-C or 1-2-3 method:  Mark boxes with an A, B or C based on how soon you will need the box--A’s get opened and unpacked first, B’s next and C’s last.  Or 1, 2, 3 respectively.  This method works well when there is priority to certain boxes, but not on others; or when certain boxes are meant to stay packed for storage (works well if a move is going to be short term).
Consecutive numbering method:  Number boxes with next number, inventorying its contents as you go.  This method works well if multiple room/area items are put into the same box--to use up box space and distribute weight between boxes or simply to pack as you go items that can be packed from multiple rooms.
Color or Letter method:  Each room has a color or letter.  Boxes that contain items that go with that room will be marked with the corresponding color or letter.  This method works well when wanting to unpack by area or room.
Combining methods:  combining any of the above methods (or other methods) like  Color + ABC/123 or # + ABC.  This method works well when want to unpack by room/area but also by priority or simply unpack numbered boxes by priority (see below inventory table for an example).
Inventories: Unless you like being driven mad with trying to find something or wondering if you have something, you will want to inventory your items--whether you are moving or not this is a good idea.  When packing a box, even if you write what is in the box on the box, it is still an excellent idea to write the contents on an actual household inventory list--you can alphabetize it or simply organize the inventory by box # or whatever, however it is done it is very helpful!
An example of a box inventory:  if doing by room color, simply color in the box with the number or next to it with the corresponding room color.

Box #/ABC
contents
1-A
frying pan, plates, bowls, cups, forks, knives, spoons
2-C
school year books, sport trophies
3-B
office files
Just one other kind of related suggestion:  Keep a camera with you--don't pack it away.  Why?  You will want to take pictures of the home you are leaving after your stuff is out of it, as well as the one you are moving into before your stuff is put into it--this is so that any damages can be noted by picture, but also so you have some good pictures of what the home looks like before/after you move.  Whether renting or buying I think taking pictures is a good idea so you have picture reference of it all.

Happy moving!  Remember make a plan, execute the plan and then enjoy the results the plan--an organized less stressful move.